When I lived in Paris, I ordered Poireaux (leeks) Vinaigrette any chance that I got. For some reason I find them irresistable; I think it is the silkiness of the leeks in juxtaposition to the sharpness of the mustardy dressing. I never wanted to make them at home because the cooking and cleaning of leeks seemed so involved - so many layers of leaves in which sand and dirt can hide, not to mention having to tie all of the cleaned leeks up with string so that they don't fall apart during the cooking process and then untying them to be eaten. Not for me.
I lived on the Ile Saint Louis which, despite being right at the heart of the city, actually conducts itself as though it were a village. I knew my neighbors, I carried groceries for the little old lady down the street. Stopping at the butcher's or greengrocer's was a social call as well as grocery shopping. If he were running out of my favorite cookie, the baker would set aside a couple for me and then chase me down in the street if I didn't drop by on my way home in order to give them to me. Everything took a little bit longer but it was a very pleasant way to live. One day, when I was buying fruit at said greengrocer's and chatting away to him about the very leek related issues that I mention above, an older woman waiting her turn piped up that her recipe was the best and that she had a trick that her mother had taught her. One thing led to another and a few days later I was in her kitchen learning the ropes of easy leeks vinaigrette, as described below.
Because of this I used to make them all the time but L. doesn't partlcularly ike them. Now I occasionally make platters of this just for me. The French traditionally garnish the leeks with lots of finely chopped hard cooked egg and chopped parsley but I feel that the parsley detracts from the taste of the leeks. It is a great appetizer but add a jammy yolked egg (one that you have managed to peel better than the one I worked with above!) and French bread to dip in the dressing and you have a fine lunch for one.
1 bunch of leeks (4-5 leeks)
1/4 cup olive oil
1/8 cup red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1 egg
Salt to taste
Chopped parsley if desired
Set a pan of salted water on the stove to boil.
While the water is heating, clean the leeks. Cut off as much of the dark green portion as you can (reserve these leaves for soup or omelet filling). Strip off the outer leaves. Cut off the root ends. Then, rather than as is customary, cutting the leeks in half, washing them and then tying them together with kitchen twine so that they cook in little bundles rather than disintegrate into individual leaves, use my French lady's tip. Using a sharp knife, cut each leek in half lengthwise but stop about an inch from the end so that all the pieces are still attached and, if spread out, look like little fans. Holding the section that is still attached at the base firmly in one hand, use your other hand to fan out the leek leaf layers gently and rinse well under the tap until no sand or dirt remains.
Place the leeks in the boiling water, cut side down. Cover and cook for 6 to 10 minutes. You will know that your leeks are done when a fork slides easily into the thickest part of the leek.
Remove the leeks from the water with tongs, shaking off as much excess water as you can while you do. Place the leeks on a thick tea towel to drain.
Add your egg to the water remaining in the pan and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the water and set aside as you finish up your dish. The yolk will cook a little further as it cools. I want my egg warm for this dish so I undercook it a a bit and cross my fingers, rather than using the proper 6 minute soft-boiled egg cooking time and an ice bath.
While your egg is cooking, make your vinaigrette. Whisk your mustard and vinegar together well. Add a pinch of salt. then, whisking constantly, pour your oil into the mixture and watch it emulsify into a creamy vinaigrette.
Pat the leeks dry with the tea towel. Place the leeks on a platter and pour over the vinaigrette. Adjust seasoning to your liking but keep in mind that the leeks really need a sharp dressing in order to shine.
To assemble, serve yourself a copious portion of the leeks and top it with your egg. A tiny sprinkling of sea salt on the egg could be nice as could chopped anchovy. Have a crusty baguette at the ready and dig in.